Jalea’s Andrew Cisneros will launch Sanguichitos by Brasas inside Perennial Artisan Ales next month
Perennial Artisan Ales drinkers will be able to enjoy a new food concept in September, with Sanguichitos by Brasas settling into the kitchen of the South City Brewery at 8125 Michigan Ave. Sanguichitos by Brasas is the latest concept from Andrew Cisneros, chef-owner of a Peruvian restaurant based in Saint-Charles Jalea.
Cisneros, who was named one of Sauce’s Ones to Watch for 2021, originally developed his sanguichitos (“little sandwiches”) for Jalea’s menu. After trying different types of bread, Cisneros decided to use pandesal, a Filipino semi-sweet yeast bun he had eaten while visiting his wife’s family in the Philippines. In terms of size, pandesal is similar to a Hawaiian roll, although the two differ in flavor. Starting with a sanguichito de cangrejo—essentially a version of a crab roll—Cisneros crafted a selection of sanguichitos in Jalea that became a hit at the restaurant and will continue to be served.
Sanguichitos by Brasas’ menu will somewhat overlap with Jalea’s sanguichito selection, although there are some distinctions between the two. Perennial’s menu will include a smoked chicken salad sanguichito that will be inspired by the Peruvian roast chicken (pollo a la brasas) Cisneros featured with its pop-up Brasas. Another option will be a spin on choripan, a chorizo sandwich popular in Peru and a number of other South American countries. “It will be a chicken and pork chorizo with smoked mozzarella and then a tomato sauce,” Cisneros said, adding that a vegetarian version of this sanguichito is also in the works. A pork belly sanguichito is inspired by the Peruvian pan con chicharron, a pork belly sandwich served with an onion relish called salsa criolla. Sanguichitos will be served with plantain chips and different flavors of potato chips – herb-salted, Peruvian-spiced – on the side.
The move to Perennial deepens an existing collaborative relationship between Cisneros and the craft brewery’s co-founder and brewmaster, Phil Wymore. Perennial recently created Waska, a Peruvian-inspired lager using heirloom quinoa, for Jalea. “I contacted Phil because we can’t source Peruvian beers in Jalea,” Cisneros said. “I remember Phil mentioning a trip to Peru and asking if it was possible to brew something similar or even better.”
This summer, Cisneros hosted a series of roast chicken pop-ups on Sundays at Perennial. This sowed the seeds for Cisneros to pitch Sanguichitos de Brasas to Phil Wymore, along with his co-founder (and wife), Emily Wymore. “I don’t think they thought twice about it,” Cisneros said. “I think they were just thrilled to hear that I was interested in having food five days a week.” For Cisneros, Sanguichitos by Brasas will bring a long-standing ambition to life. “I’ve always wanted to work in a brewery with food, to associate food with beer,” he said.
Sanguichitos by Brasas will be open during normal Perennial opening hours, but the kitchen will close approximately one hour before the last bar orders. After the kitchen closes, a take-out menu will be available featuring bar snacks from Jalea’s kitchen — Peruvian popcorn, for example — as well as baked goods from Liz’s Filipino Desserts. Orders will initially be online only, with customers scanning a QR code at their table to view the menu.
Cisneros said Sanguichitos by Brasas will host a few pop-ups at Perennial in August, with a view to launching the new concept in early September. Follow Brasas or Perennial Artisan Ales on Instagram for the latest announcements.